In contrast to the bohemian avant-garde modernists did not rely on the uncontrolled inspiration. They lined up their own intellectual theories of art and creativity and not trying to look like a particularly artistic. Even photographs of such masters of avant-garde behavior, as the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists, show a serious-looking young people in ordinary clothes of the time. Famous Salvador Dali mustache, for many, is almost an emblem of surrealism, if not avant-garde in general, were, of course, a challenge not only the bourgeoisie, but also fellow artists. Mustaches of these, who found its canonical form in the 1940's, when Dalí was no longer needed the support of colleagues in the Surrealist group, and believed that he himself is surrealism, was equally defiant anachronistic as his meticulously smooth brushwork. If painting Dali declared himself a follower of Vermeer, the style mustache, he seems to be borrowed from another of his favorite classics - Velasquez.
But despite the declarative reference to the masters of the past, in its approach to the image of Dali greatly outstripped many of his contemporaries, creating one of the most recognizable images of the artist. Mustache is not restricted. Dali, one of the first who managed to become a real mediazvezdoy, has developed a whole strategy to create a personal myth. In the course went on everything - from anteaters, which gave a walking their leashed on the streets of Paris in front of numerous cameras, before the acquisition of this medieval castle Pubol, which he gave to Gale, and along with the title of Marquis de Pubol granted by him in 1982, the King of Spain title surprisingly suitable for its baroque mustache.
Women who are active participants in the artistic process again in the era of modernism, was probably more difficult to create a compelling image, without making concessions with the banal fashion. In the case of the famous Frida Kahlo is impossible to say that we know better - her work, her appearance or her biography, the more so because the artist created a mostly self-portraits, as well as written has become no less iconic than the paintings, "The Diary". In modern parlance, Frida Kahlo was her own project - and its fused eyebrows, braids decorated with flowers, exotic Mexican ethnic dresses and Aztec jewelry plays a no less important than its communist beliefs and patriotism, the marriage to Rivera and an affair with Trotsky, bisexuality and disease. Even his injury Frida could turn into an attribute of style - an orthopedic corsets that she wore at her paintings and photographs into a sort of extravagant detail and fetish toilet. Radical as against the fashion, Kahlo was able to become an icon: one of the hits of Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion models painted defiled with knitted brows a la Frida.
In the second half of the twentieth century, when the media began to play an increasing role, including in art, in a kind of emblem of style and become distant from dandyism artists. Jackson Pollock, already in his lifetime, in 1949, called the greatest artist America has literally become a part of their own art through a fad of "action painting", an innovative technique of making pictures, assist the transitional stage towards the art of performance. Photos skinny bald man dressed in black jeans, which will enter into vogue fifteen years later, spray paint on canvas, famous for not less than the actual paintings. In 1951, Hans Namut Pollock took in the documentary. Coarse shoes splattered with paint, which the artist puts before a session of painting, appear in the first few frames. It looked like a quote referring to the famous series of paintings by Van Gogh, depicting old shoes. Boots Pollock claimed the role as a universal symbol of new art.
In the book "Popizm" Warhol recalled how carefully kept its image as the abstract expressionists, cultivated machismo and the escarpment. Warhol himself, of course, showed completely different, laid-back style of mannered behavior. And completely new look. Wigs, which Andy wore the late 1960's, were an essential part of the image, as well as a kind of camouflage. Glory, as we know, was one of the main themes of Warhol, but perhaps not so much to how much the subject of study. At the peak of fame on the contrary, he enjoyed the opportunity to be incognito and sent in his place on the hangouts of twins, the benefit of the wig and glasses to anyone to fifteen minutes of fame Warhol. Warhol was one of the first realized that being properly dressed is not enough - you have to be dressed. And in disguise he had spent almost all my life: few people had seen him without the wig.
Worthy place alongside Warhol's wig is the hat of his main rival and antagonist, Joseph Beuys. His eternal Boyce felt hat worn almost as a stigma: it is believed that he hid under her scars received during World War II, when his plane was shot down in the Crimea. Felt, honey and fat, with which the German pilot came out Tatars, became central to his personal myth, and the main materials of his art. Beuys's hat is not just a hat, but part of self-mythology, it felt - in fact, the same Felt. Somewhere in the mid 1960's Boyce has always wear a vest with many pockets and high army boots. This costume did Beuys like adventurer Indiana Jones. The appearance of Beuys in conjunction with its history and is, in fact, its main product. No wonder the American artist Elaine Sturtevant, engaged in a conceptual design manufacture of exact copies of textbook of modern art, turned to Boise, did not copy his installation, but simply photographed in his suit and hat while playing one of his most famous images.
By the end of 1960, in the heyday of the new bohemians, who looked like the artist was clearly more than these artists. It looked radical appeared on the art scene in 1969, the British Gilbert and George, imposed itself on all kinds of exhibitions as "living sculptures". They did not do anything special, but seemed to scandal is not artistically: Which artists, but these innovators, at a time to dress in gray suits and clerks wearing slicked short hair.
An example of Gilbert and George, however, did not become contagious. Artists and other bohemians still tried not to look like everyone else, and alternative fashion and contemporary art went hand in hand, so that a border between them was not always possible. One of the main characters of the main project of the Venice Biennale in 2005 was Lee Bowery, who died in 1994, a cult hero of the London Underground 1980-1990's, designer, club promoter, a professional freak and Lucian Freud's favorite sitter. Vestments of satin, latex, sequins and god knows what else, that Lee Boveri created and displayed in the clubs, were not the actual costumes. They resembled those abstractions, in which the actors were avant-garde theater, for example, "Victory over the Sun" by Kazimir Malevich and Mikhail Matyushina, or in the ballets Oskar Schlemmer at the Bauhaus. Works of Lee Bowery was not so much dressing as remodeling of the body - like the piercing, which he also does not despise.
Rebuilding your own body and become famous French Orlan, which began experimenting with plastic surgery in the 1990's. At first she tried to turn his face into a set of quotations from classical painting, and then, to challenge traditional notions of beauty, implanted in his forehead, two cones. Since then, her every appearance on the art developments in desperate makeup and hair in the style of manga-punk into a mini-performance.
The next generation of artists to his own appearance are, perhaps, more restrained. Jeff Koons appears in public in the state a black suit and white shirt. Ternerovskoy Prize winner, Grayson Perry, the Briton, on their own exhibitions appears as a transvestite Claire, and at other events, such as the opening of Frieze, comes in the guise of a man's private papers. Apparently, both of them follow not only their own desires and tastes, but the strict rules they invented artistic strategies. As such artistic strategies you can select modnichane as such, is not associated with the creation of an art. This act, for example, Eva and Adele, the amazing skinheads in a pink doll clothes - their mistaken for a transvestite, even though they are a heterosexual couple. These art-personalities from Germany seemed to be doing some objects and photographs, but it is clear that their main project - it is secular outlets. "Where we are - a museum" - they say. Indeed, there has to at least some take the trouble to get ready for Opening Day: make a full make-up, stand up on his heels and clad in something bleskuchee, whispering and generally extremely uncomfortable.
http://www.artchronika.ru/item.asp?id=1900
03.03.2010, 23:09
Dress code artist
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