Collecting and perfume bottles

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[sprezzatura]

Collectors as perfume bottles and collectors actually perfume - two irreconcilable warring clan.
Some do not understand why sully elegant bottle (of Serge Manso, for example), some ancient poluisparivsheysya muck - and carefully, to shine, and washed nadraivayut their trophies.
The second is contrary to the idea that someone's sacrilegious hand with a washcloth ....
The first hold their collections in glass cases with bright backlighting. The latter moved in the depths of cabinets and drawers, away from the damaging effects of the sun.
The first years of lying in wait for a bottle at auction, "the Sun King," autographed by Salvador Dali, and the latter, having heard about it, shrug, "so-so aromatets ..." and continue to roam the flea markets in search of "Chypre" Coty in "nikakuschem (according to the first) bottle."
The first can with a light heart to pour into an empty bottle of tinted liquid - glass looked so expressive. The latter is just as easy spilite jammed friction lid to get to the bottom of the preserved aroma ...
And they both - gatherers. But the first call themselves collectors, and the second - parfmanyakami >

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A remarkable example of the domestic perfumery - perfumes "Yaroslavna".

Issued in honor of Valentina Tereshkova, a limited edition.
Bottle - crystal, hand cut.
Factory "New Dawn", year of the bottle - 1968.


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[sprezzatura]

A remarkable example of the domestic perfumery - perfumes "Yaroslavna".

Issued in honor of Valentina Tereshkova, a limited edition.
Bottle - crystal, hand cut.
Factory "New Dawn", year of the bottle - 1968.

[sprezzatura]

Perfume - is both the means of seduction, and a means of pleasure. The art of perfumery and perfectly amazing. Mysterious, sweet world of smells irresistibly attracts. This mysterious world has its own history, its own laws and traditions. Aroma that stirs the soul - so you want to understand their secrets, know the hidden essence of perfume.

But that mean spirits without its beautiful shell - the bottle ... The perfume industry, as in any other form of content and supplement each other.

Bottle, as are spirits created for years, can survive and dress her mistress, and even the furniture on which it stands. Perfume bottles - this is a special sphere of high art, whose main task - to translate the language of odors in the visuals, to convey the idea first glimpse of the intangible and "volatile" flavor in the form of specific lines, volumes and colors. Visuals reports smell of shades of meaning, emphasizes and reveals his secret association, and sometimes adds something of his own.

In general, the design of perfumes contain very many references to the archetypes of consciousness, to the deep layers of personality. For example, the widespread acceptance of registration in the form of a bottle of a female figure - it's not a whim of men perfumers, and rise to the perception of their own figures as an ideal introduction to the content through the "ideal" model. Theme of magic, a magic crystal - not just a publicity stunt, but an attempt to understand the fundamental mystery of perfume, scented differently to different people at different times, under different weather conditions.

Several years ago, a collector of perfume bottles from only one. Today, these valuable vessels have the right to participate in the prestigious auctions in France, the United States and Russia. Their cost is often achieves significant digits.

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Now there are experts and specialty stores engaged in search of vintage perfume bottles and vials of perfume. What is the difference between them? Bottle of perfume - it's usually bottles without brand, dating back to ancient times, or 19 century, sold with no content and can store a variety of flavors. Bottle of spirits, which appeared at the end of the previous century, is usually the name of the perfumer, and contains one of his compositions.

Selection criteria include: the signature of the glazier, brand, age, original bottle. Samples in the form of animals are the subject of truth, of envy, as well as bottles in the style of "baroque» xviii century. or historical, related to a specific event. Appearance and condition of the bottle finally determine its value. Collection bottle must have an initial cap and label, and if it is presented in its case, it is appreciated even more. Finally, experts do not like the restored bottles and packaging and do not take into account the numerous images of the spirits.

By the beginning of 1917 in Russia already functioning plant producing 234 windows, 15 of which were made perfume dishes. Most of the plants were located in the perfume profile Moscow and Moscow Province. This was due to several reasons: there were good lines of communication and an abundance of fuel. Raw material for perfume vessels in Russia were abundant, from abroad were imported equipment and machines for engraving, sanding and polishing of glass bottles. Perfumes domestic mass-production cost no more than 4 rubles per bottle. For comparison - the perfume of the same level of Western Europe rose in price to 15 rubles. Of course, this did not apply to exclusive things are made in small batches, or even just a single copy on request. Such items include bottles of a particularly pure crystal with gold or silver caps, embellished with precious stones, and bottles made of pure silver and gold filigree and enamels with.

Perfume bottles in pre-revolutionary Russia is not produced separately for each firm. In addition, several glass factories to produce bottles of the same design. Perfume manufacturers ordered the necessary directories for them bottles of glass factories. Although there are exceptions: some perfume dishes made from sketches of artists working directly on the perfume factories. So working in a factory Brocard artists Rosinskiy B. and A. Evseev. The latter, in 1925 made a sketch for the perfume box set "Red Moscow". Some vials were carried out according to special orders or members of the royal court aristocrats. Our glass-making in their skill level with the European masters. It is no accident the modern perfume collectors often fall into confusion: bottles of our artists turn of the century is very similar in style to the works of Lalique.

In Russia, early 20th century, flourished company "Modern", which ordered bottles exclusively in Russia. At this time dominated the modernist style. In the late 19th - early 20th century created highly perfumery articles, participated in their development leading jewelry companies: Carl Faberge, Orestes Kurlyukova, Jacob Mishukov. Masters and Michael Perkhin Wigstrom Henry, who worked for Faberge, known as the authors of the magnificent perfume bottle made of gold and silver, now stored at the Hermitage. Often the crystal frame in bronze. On the vials of the precious metals must be seen the name or initials of the wizard. In the early xix century, Russia was in fashion gift boxes for perfume. Typically, these boxes were made of cardboard or wood and covered with silk or velvet. As a "label" served with a greeting card made by the customer or the original manufacturer's product inserts, wholesaler or store owner, indicating nested in a box of goods.

With the rapid development of industry and production of consumer goods surged edition packaging and labels.

By working on the label entrepreneurs often attracted prominent artists. Unfortunately, so far unable to determine the names of many of the creators of the original, highly labels late xix - xx in the beginning. We only know that the advertising schedule (including packaging and label) worked I. Bilibin, M. Vrubel, as well as large advertising art masters - AA Apsit, A. Belsky, Gaponov, M. Kolesnikov, etc.

Decoration perfume dishes followed the character development of the art at that time. Art Nouveau, widely covered many areas of art, was reflected in the design of bottles and labels. They began to decorate characteristic of Art Nouveau stylized floral designs, beautiful women's faces, the ladies in long dresses that looked like fairies (cologne "Rose Fairy"). On the vials with perfumes and colognes appeared images of birds and animals, butterflies and beetles, various patterns and designs combined the reality and fiction. The walls were decorated with images of bottles of nymphs and mermaids. Floral motifs in the perfume design brilliantly displayed the essence of fragrance - in fact the basis of the spirits were alcohol extracts and tinctures of various flowers, leaves, roots. At that time there were original, "exciting" names Russian perfume: "Modern," "swan's down," "likes, dislikes," "Carmen" and many others (some of them have survived to this day).

Appeared in parallel with modern architecture, applied graphics (especially in decorating books, magazines, music, posters, etc.) "Russian" style, or so-called after the architect ropetovsky Petrov (pseudonym Ropet) also found application in the perfume industry. Ware appeared on perfume pictures of Russian beauties, the heroes of Russian history, fantasy characters, scenes from the life of Russian people, the monuments of Russian architecture.

At that time, there are bottles of portraits of Pushkin, Suvorov, the famous Russian wrestlers Poddubny, Luriha, and in honor of the century, World War II in 1812, even Napoleon.

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A striking example of Russian modern products can serve as Glassworks Fungal brothers. The factory mainly produces perfume bottles for well-known Moscow perfume companies: Brocard, rally, Ostroumov. In the 80's in an area where there was a factory, were excavated, and found many wonderful perfume sample dishes distinctive style of "modern".

The history of Russian perfumery more than one and a half centuries. In perfumes embodies the talent of its creators. Almost every bottle found motives of Russian nature, or display of significant events relating to the history of Homeland. Here, the memory of the dynasty of Russian tsars, and a tribute to the heroic confrontation of Russians invaded the Napoleonic hordes, portraits of prominent figures in Russia, members of the Romanov dynasty. Often close to the "high" motives in our perfume rubbed marks the simple life, such as the scene of the rural landscape.


In many perfume bottles Russia in the late 19th-early 20th century can be found repeated coats of arms and medals. These mysterious characters meant very much for the right to put these logos on bottles, many perfumers were willing to pay big money. But this right is sold. There was a kind of "roster", depending on the product quality perfume companies have the right to put on their perfume pot, different images, emblems and medals.

Was the most honorable image of the State Emblem of Russia. Emblem on the brand or product meant that the perfume company is a supplier of the Imperial Court.


The right to bring goods to the court of the Emperor in Russia of 18-19 centuries was a testament to their high quality. Beginning in 1742, was introduced the post of court factor that determines quality and worth of their goods and subscribed from abroad. Encourage the development of industry and commerce was one of the main problems created by Peter i the new state. Were designed to encourage forms of the state of quality of goods produced by individual companies. January 21, 1848 Nicholas i approved the new "Regulations on the exhibition of products of manufactories, mills and factories in St. Petersburg, Moscow and Warsaw." By this provision, manufacturers of high quality products and rational organization of production can be awarded: 1) public praise and appreciation in the description of the exhibition, and 2) cash prizes, and 3) commendation medals, specially manufactured for this purpose, 4) the right to use the state emblem on signs and commodities 5) medals to be worn around the neck, the ribbon, gold and silver, and 6) orders.



Permission to use the State Emblem gave the Minister of Finance, in charge of the up to 1905 industry and trade. But in parallel began to develop a system to encourage people to deliver the goods to the imperial court. Their number was quite considerable. These individuals were called by court vendors. By mid-century xix practice has been the use of their images on the national coat of arms products. There is reason to believe that the emergence of this form of promotion to the position of trade shows has appeared under the influence of such practices. The right to use the state emblem on products suppliers provide the Ministry of the Imperial Court. In 1856, it was found that this right may be granted only to factories, artists, craftsmen and suppliers to the Emperor and Empress. Suppliers of great princes could use on their signs the initials of the Grand Dukes. Until 1917 for the Ministry of Finance had the right to award the right to use the state emblem on signs and products participating industrial exhibitions, and for the Ministry of the Imperial Court - the court vendors.


Condition for obtaining the title of the provider of the imperial court was the performance of work or supplies to the needs of the imperial court continuously for at least 8-10 years, production or delivery of work directly by the applicant requesting the assignment of this title, the production of supplies for the most of the objects of its own production or products own factories, workshops and factories, the success of the supply or work that is in good, fair, at a comparatively low price order execution, witnessed by the relevant authorities. To obtain the title of the provider of the imperial court requested for the highest resolution. This title is only assigned a run time of supply or production work for the needs of the imperial court and the person only to owners of commercial and industrial establishments, not firms. The title of the provider was not hereditary. To save the heirs of this title required a special high resolution image. As a state emblem used the image of so-called small national coat of arms. This image is accompanied by the words "Supplier of the Imperial Household." And the year of award of this title. In the second half of the xix - xx early centuries the title of court vendor and its associated right to use the national coat of arms became the dominant form of recognition in commerce and industry and pushed into the background other forms of promotion. This title, first of all, the better the advertising of goods and services, which ultimately contributed to the prosperity of the enterprise or institution. Suppliers of the imperial court were the elite of world trade and industry of the Russian Empire.




In 1824 the merchants who received the right to constantly deliver their products to the court, received a diploma and the title of "Supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty," to decorate their trade boards, as well as to put their products on the imperial coat of arms.

All goods ordered the royal family for personal use for ceremonies and diplomatic receptions, receiving the title. However, to earn the title of the provider of the imperial court was not easy. To become a supplier of the Imperial family, the manufacturer was required for at least eight years to produce exceptionally high-quality goods. Marriage in the slightest - and everything can start again and prove a further eight years, working on the conscience and deserve a high rank - the supplier of the Imperial Court. But it was worth the title of works. Commissioned as a supplier, and with it the right to represent the "etiquette" - that before the revolution was called the label - the national emblem of Russia - the two-headed eagle with scepter and orb, industrialist received significant benefits. He could get a title of nobility, the highest award in Russia. Bestowed upon his family and rent, and patronage in the placement of children in prestigious schools. But, most importantly, the company Supplier of the court of His Imperial Majesty was acquiring a solid tax benefits received lucrative and prestigious government orders. State in every way to facilitate the movement of such goods, both domestic and foreign markets, is absolutely correct belief that a quality product - the prestige and pride of Great Russia. And he was the supplier is required to maintain and improve quality and expand its range of products: noblesse oblige! Some companies are suppliers of Grand Dukes and placed in vials of their personal coat of arms. On most brands of perfumery ware can see the images of medals - awards received at various exhibitions and is also a sign of quality and prestige. Following the establishment in 1829, and the success of the first exhibitions of Russian manufactured articles has become possible to create an objective mechanism for selecting the best products that were awarded gold, silver, bronze medals and diplomas.

Among the Russian perfumery companies suppliers of the Imperial Court is a partnership Brocard, rally, Ostroumov, Sioux Buiza, glass factory Ritinga.



Brocard factory has 14 gold medals received at various international exhibitions, has been a provider Russian Imperial Court and the Spanish royal house, the sign were three arms of government, supporting the highest quality products and recognition in the perfume world. At brokarovskih bottles proudly adorned: gold medal received at the exhibition in Paris in 1900, a gold medal received at the Russian industrial and artistic exhibition, medals that were awarded to the Brocard perfume exhibitions in Riga, Boston, Barcelona, ​​Antwerp. On brochures and leaflets necessarily mentioned awards and certificates. On a bottle of the famous Flower cologne can count 10 exhibition medals, framing the arms of its empire. Height. Maria Alexandrovna, Grand Duchess of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (Factory Brocard was its suppliers). Seeing even one bottle of this company, we can confidently say that Brokar was really one of the best perfume manufacturers Russia in the late 19th - early 20th century.

On one of the posters Association Ralli, indicated that the company has 60 top prizes at exhibitions - many modern perfumery companies can only envy such a success. Collectors by reviewing a few bottles, surely notice that the supplier of the Imperial Court partnership Rally was in 1865, and was founded in 1843, that is, perfumer took 18 years of work to earn this high rank. This is the only enterprise that four of arms of Russia.

Among the emblems found on the perfume pot rally - a personal coat of arms of His Majesty the Shah of Persia, His Highness Prince coat of arms of Montenegro. On the bottle "spring trends" coat of arms placed not only on the label, but also on the cork.

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In any industry interest in the past - nedosuzhy interest. Without understanding the past is impossible to develop the modern. Unfortunately, in our country in the 20's 30's new old sometimes destroy everything indiscriminately. This is especially illustrated by the ratio of perfume ware and manufacturing labels.

After the October Revolution and follow him nationalization of enterprises tremendous stocks of vials that were stored in warehouses, had been cruelly and almost completely destroyed, since bore the names and marks of old masters, the symbolism of the tsarist government. It is for this reason, many of them are now very rare items of elite collections.

After the revolution, factories and partnerships, releasing the fragrance products that have been nationalized, many of them will soon cease to exist - since the beginning of the Civil War was no longer a need for perfume. Gone are the names of once-famous perfume companies, and most of them began to issue soap for the Red Army.

With the advent of the NEP in 1921, people's attitudes towards perfume began to change. Arose State Trust "Zhirkost" which united several perfume and cosmetic industries, including the famous former factory rally and Brocard. In 1922, the factory acquired Brocard new name: State mylnoparfyumerny factory "Novaya Zarya". In the first post-revolutionary years, especially in the "early NEP," on the labels of colognes and perfumes, in addition to its name, the new firm added: "The former Brocard," or "Former Rally", "former Sioux ..."

The same names were placed on glass in the manufacture of bottles. Often already cast by the new Soviet forms of old bottles glued labels. Remained the same and the names of many of the goods to which the buyer was used as the guarantor of quality (it was a natural - increased demand). Among these were the perfume perfume "Carmen," "Bouquet of my grandmother," "Renome", "Fuji San," etc.

Only the names of plants were replaced with new ones. Together with the abolition of property will change the names of companies. At the same time many of them trade mark is before the Revolution. NEP has dramatically changed the situation in the business, and in 1923 came the decree of the RSFSR "On Trademarks" - marks a new period or resembled precursors or brought revolutionary symbolism. After the nationalization of the company were numbered. As a result, in Moscow, Leningrad and other cities appeared perfume plants number 1, 2, 3, etc. Only later did it become appropriate "revolutionary" name. For example, in Moscow, "Bolshevik" (the former company "Siu & Co."), "New Dawn" (the former perfume factory "Brokar"), etc. In the period of the NEP on bottles and labels of various handicraft items appeared and cooperative enterprises: cooperative labor gang perfume factory, a cooperative association "Tsygpischeprom", etc. Soon, the country's largest state associations are formed, printed and distributed food and industrial products: MSPO "Mosselprom", "TeZhe."

And the bottles that time began to appear with the names of reprints. Curious enough to look like perfume bottles, "cryptic" signs: TeZhe, MSPO. Attitude to labels and bottles changed dramatically. Ideology of Bolshevism concluded: "regardless of the established fact that the capacity printing packages that consume hundreds of tons of paper, several times the amount of paper consumed in the production of books in the USSR, maximize the packaging design for the promotion of current general political problems trying to link them to content of the goods. "

In line with similar facilities and the government began the struggle with the old, established traditions clearance bottles.

Smells remained the same, but the bottles and labels had to drastically change: frivolous ladies, frivolous nymphs and flowers Nouveau did not meet the strict requirements and spirit of the times "Soviet people". Once considered a model of artistic style and the best representatives of perfumery art, flasks declared "bourgeois" and alien to the Soviet republic.


Sleek slim style bottles for cologne, corresponding to its aromatic properties, has been criticized as designed to "bourgeois consumer." Been severely criticized many really nice western style solutions and the old Russian masters. They seemed "perverse examples of bourgeois culture."


Different wrapping crunchy, waxed paper, impregnated with perfume, was expelled from the manufacturing process, because they were used by bourgeois entrepreneurs for marketing purposes. Wrappers for soap labels to cologne, to a variety of cosmetic and, gold print and gold fields wrappers used, according to the proletariat, especially for the excitation of erotic feelings, ideas of luxury, wealth, exceptional quality of the product ... On the other hand: "... Box Pepper reflects the new collectivized village, where she served in the form of hot pepper to the capitalist world. " Probably, the representatives of the latter were to shudder at the sight of labels for soap "proletarian" or "Farmer".

In the 20's and 30's. Xx century during the struggle for the Soviet economy, and the overcoming of bourgeois habits, labels have been made on paper of poor quality, with a minimum of colors, details and information. Trademarks of old Russian and foreign firms were seen as examples of "capitalist, unacceptable in our environment elements."

Time of the NEP was fleeting, and perfumes of the period is in some way original, as all that is created at the intersection of social eras. Now seem amusing, some samples of perfume early 20's. For example, a bottle of cologne "New Dawn", the label that shows the worker and collective farm, staring at the dawn of the dealing. In the background - chimneys, out of which brings down the smoke and flying in the direction of the rising sun.

Time has shown that the indiscriminate destruction of pre-culture in the name of a proletarian culture had a negative impact on the development and design of label products and perfume vessels, led to the emergence of primitive patterns, absurd solutions.

During the first five-on labels, packaging, new name cosmetics and perfumes: soap "Udarnitsa," "Dawn," "proletarian," cologne "AMO" (Moscow Automobile Company).

Symbols on the perfume dishes of the Soviet period is markedly different from the pre-revolutionary symbols, not only in appearance, but also carries a completely different function.

Bottles are widely used for new elements of the Soviet heraldry: Red flags (the symbol of victory and unity of the people) and tape heads (as a symbolic image of wealth and fertility of the young Soviet state), gears (the technical strength of the country), five-pointed red star, hammer and sickle image Worker and Collective Farm. Often on perfume labels painted young female athletes (symbolizing spiritual and physical health of the nation). Popular was the image of the Kremlin - as the main unofficial state symbol.




Labels and names of perfumes are often dedicated to the anniversaries of the October Revolution and other political festivals, congresses of the Communist Party, etc. Soon they began to show cultural events and developments in science and technology, such as "800th anniversary of Moscow", launching the first artificial Earth satellite, etc. The whole package and the name on the stage of the sketch were then a great number of possible 'approvers' commissions, and before printing, and more are required to attend state censorship.

The labels appear famous quotes and portraits of our leaders. Perfume dishes for many years into a powerful instrument of propaganda and indoctrination of the country. Flag, symbols of power and the regime in the Soviet Union played a major role as an open propaganda. Such a trend has developed as a result of political leadership tasks: the Soviet government was necessary as soon as possible to turn all the "dark mass of the people" in the cultural society, able to raise the country, to develop science and culture.


This required a simple, intelligible and effective methods of propaganda slogans, cliches, cram posters, labels, symbols.

I must say that to the design of labels and bottles to the design of 20-30s brought many famous artists: S. Chekhonin, Andreev, AA Zelensky, Alexander Rodchenko, A. Mandrusov, C. Huon, A. Deineka , W. Konashevich, E. Heeger, I. Fomin. Unfortunately, biased interest agitational design labels and grasped these great masters.

 

Thus, we can state with confidence that the roots of the existing relations in the Soviet Union to the label and packaging must be sought in the 20's and 30's, when waged a deadly struggle with a truly "bourgeois packaging label." And in this struggle the Bolsheviks, alas, have won.

In modern Russian specialists lost tradition in the creation of decent packaging for perfume compositions: with few exceptions Soviet bottles struck her the same four-sided "cologne form," and the same type of names, which are mainly either male or female names (all are memorable once popular "Sasha" and "Natasha"), or the seasons or the names of colors.





Despite the dominance style of socialist realism in the Soviet Union maintained an ancient technology of cases for perfumery and cosmetics. One of the oldest "New Dawn" actively used such decorative elements as a brand updates, and when you restore the once well-known brands. Glued cases voluminous, fanciful shapes with rich silk draperies and figured in "nest" for a bottle - the typical elements promgrafiki revolutionary period. It is noteworthy that until the late 60s. 20th century, they existed as an integral part of the Soviet style. In the early 20th century created more bottles that carry the aesthetic function, rather than propaganda. Design of milky-white bottle with a list in the form of escape, flowering plants, has been developed so as to attract the attention of men. Breakdowns shrewdness that men will buy this beauty for women, to see the admiration in their eyes.

At the beginning of ZO-ies became apparent formal division of the art recognized, semi-recognized and unrecognized. The current scale of values ​​in art is strictly limited range of topics, genres, subjects, and the observance of these plants was equal to nation-wide approval.





All this applies not only painting, sculpture and architecture. Perfume bottles were designed in the same spirit. Theme of the holiday perfectly fit into the range of allowed sites. Collective work, recreation and sports, happiness to the execution of work tasks were themes that were welcomed in the arts. Bottles of cologne and perfume were similar to the role of the interior of the porcelain figurines: they cherished as decorations. Spirits used only in special cases. The most famous perfume shop in Moscow was on the corner of Tverskaya Street and Kamergersky lane.

Prior to 1917, in Moscow, worked two perfume factory, later renamed the factory "Freedom" and "New Dawn". We must pay tribute perfume bottles with ground glass, hand-carved mirrors - they were really beautiful. In the 50's and 60's. bottles produced in the USSR for theatrical bags - it was a miniature, decorated with filigree, enamel, stones. In Soviet Russia, the desire for beauty was irresistible.

Very trendy (adjusted for the fact that the word and the concept of "fashion" was eliminated from the vocabulary of the young Soviet state citizens) during the Soviet era were bottles made of wood: after turning on them coated with thread from the top was covered with bottles of paint.


Perfume dishes and labels in the 60s largely remained in the tradition of the 30s. Among the artists in this period of work, our departed in his style of avant-garde 20s.

Most of the labels were performed in the style of socialist realism. They depicted the flowers, fruits, vegetables, etc., monotonous-looking labels and simple design of bottles did not attract the interest of buyers.

Yes, it did not really need the manufacturer in a planned economy, lack of private enterprise and, therefore, competition.

Perfume dishes became part of the political game and symbolism that depicted on the bottle, has played a leading role here.

"New Dawn" after the October Revolution of 1917, was nationalized and renamed the State soap factory number 5. Fortunately, just a faceless name did not stick. In 1922, the decision of the Council of People's Commissars and the SEC was given the factory premises factory "Gosznak." On the advice of the MI Kalinin workers rebuilt the ruins of the former wallpaper factory Sladkova, and November 1, 1922 opened the "State perfume and soap factory" Novaya Zarya ". In August 1925 Michelle his work "Beloved Empress Bouquet" called "Red Moscow". In 1941, one of the shops have been evacuated to Yekaterinburg from which subsequently formed a plant "Ural semi-precious stones." In the postwar years, a new stage in the development of "New Dawn". There is a growing volume of production, expanding the product range. At this time, the factory produces more than 200 types of goods, accounting for 64%of all the perfumes of the USSR. The legendary "Red Moscow", "Scythian Gold", "Black Casket," "Blue Casket," "Stone Flower" and many others were honored and loved unconditionally.

In the perfume set of "Black Chest" bottles themselves are made in a simple four-sided shape, but cork stylized Kremlin towers. Gift Box depicts the ancient casket, which is drawn the Moscow Kremlin.

It's safe to say that the change in the royal symbols of symbols of the Soviet state, has completely changed not only the appearance but also the semantic contribution. Before the revolution, emblem or medal on the bottle talked about the high quality consumer products, the high rank of the perfume company. In the USSR there was no need to place the symbols, talking about high-class products, as well as everything that was done in the Soviet Union, a priori, it was of the highest quality. The symbolism carried the propaganda or function, or just stressed the fact that it's products manufactured in the Soviet Union.

Vials have a lot to say about the class of perfume. From belonging to one class or another depended on the quality of the perfume bottles and method of production. Bottles and packaging materials, developed with the assistance of professional designers, as a rule, are a sign of product class "lux".

This is where you can find works of art in the form of bottles, for the design of which invited experts of world renown. In the production of packaging for the perfume of this class are used top quality materials: bottles are made of expensive glass factories with ancient traditions. Certainly, this packaging significantly increases the final cost it contains an aromatic liquid.



In the production of bottles for the perfume cheaper, designed for middle-class consumers, in most cases the products are bottled in standard bottles, sold in the factories - manufacturers of packaging means. Today in Russia there are practically no such plants, and domestic firms are professionally engaged in design, tableware and perfume packaging, can be counted on the fingers. Such bottles are made of inexpensive, not the highest quality glass, and the same applies to the board. In the development of packaging materials are selected so that the bottle at a cost no greater than themselves spirits. Therefore, firms that manufacture perfumes of this class, do not complicate yourself a thorough design development vials, which requires large investments and certain expenses.

Of course, perfumes dishes is something more than a simple container for a liquid aromatic - vials they say about age, about people and times. They can become a kind of guide to the history. It is only necessary to look carefully at the labels and bottles themselves, for they encountered symbols.

Unfortunately, to date, Russia's leading perfume companies not engaged in the development of exclusive perfume dishes, and bought ready-made bottles (often abroad). And this despite the fact that large companies would gladly bought perfume, poured into vials with a corporate logo.

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[sprezzatura]

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Gianni Versace, the twentieth century

Lalique bottle production

[sprezzatura]

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USSR, 60 years of the twentieth century

New Dawn, Dzintars


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Gloria Vanderbildt, the twentieth century, a bottle of Lalique


Salvatore Ferragamo, the twentieth century.
Numbered bottle, crystal.
Circulation 1500 copies.

[NATA NOVA]

sprezzatura, and what is known about the attractant (pheromones), composed of spirits (perfume)?

[Тихая Сапа]

I wonder how savers are struggling with the inevitable Osmoteki collapse of the spirits?
Store formulas and create Novodels?
Hard to believe that the spirits created 100 years ago to preserve intact the bouquet.

[NATA NOVA]

Silent Sapa, the film looked about Pompeian excavations, so believe me, in their closets, Mr. but still stinks (and how many years have passed!) So that 100 years-to-no odor of time!
) Bouquet can be found, I think ..

[Seriy]

NATA NOVA, is not so simple . For example , in the original "Red Moscow " has been used iridiol component produced from the roots irisa.Seychas it is not produced and Kr.M. only resemble the former . T e perfumers create a reminder of the scent. Develop new iridiol unprofitable.
 Or here's amber - mined from the digestive tract kashelotov . In the United States banned the sale of the ban on commercial whaling . So again, use a substitute.
 All natural ingredients also decompose over time.