Prices varied: for Abramoviches, and Ivanov - from a few thousand euros on the "exclusive" trays and up to a few euros on conventional trays.
At such antique rynochkah excitement peculiar to each antiquary, injects extra adrenaline in the blood. For (with certain knowledge, of course) to find here a unique object is much simpler than in expensive respected galleries. No wonder one of the farewell among Western dealer is joking: «Happy hunting!» ( «Good hunting!") At that time, hunting for me was good - managed to buy (do not ask for much), a remarkable figure of Chinese lacquer lords, which our experts Museum of East confidently dated the XVII century.
In addition to the antique market NICE can attract their quarter antiquarians. On several streets in the port area there are more than four dozen stores where prying eyes researcher can find a lot of interesting things. But the problem is simply to get inside the store, as well as Mediterranean climate dictates the rules of the game - most dealers are working only a couple of hours in the morning and two hours in the evening, other times carelessly leaving a note on the door with a telephone number - you, you and call. Must. Called. We are trying to reach. The result is not always the case.

Of course, a visit Côte d'Azur without a walk in the Monaco would be not only incomplete, but, to put it mildly, absurd. Vanity Fair - Vanity Fair - the name of this place invented long ago, and everyone who was in the Monte Carlo method agree with this definition. Here you can see the traffic jam, consisting entirely of Ferrari, Maybach, and Bentley, but also found in the queue for croissants good-looking old woman in Chinese slippers and a basket in his hands, but the finger of her glittering stone, which cost more than the annual budget of a small African state. Typical day. Plain old woman. Unusual city itself.

Antique life is also extremely diverse: from luxury galleries offering the masterpieces of world art, the Impressionists and the avant-garde jewelry and luxury furniture worth hundreds of thousands of euros, to small shops, specialty which can be defined in everyday sentence: "What is found, then sell it." However, if we compare the picture of Nice and Monte Carlo, a clear difference in the classroom. If in Nice can be found worthy things at reasonable prices, the cost of Monaco serious things changed radically. Galleries, specializing in Oriental art, only one, things are quite adequate to the world antiques market, but nothing extraordinary.
Summing up the impressions of the antique shops of Nice and the MC, I note that, while away from the main paths of movement of the majority of Russian dealers, they certainly are of some interest, because the Cote d'Azur, has never been ravaged world wars and revolutions, is the repository of a large number of interesting works of art.
http://antrakt.ng.ru/antiquare/2008-09-05/20_nice.html

It's a long sunlit area on one side of which stretch churches and old houses, on the other - the white building on the street Ponshett galleries, and closes its azure, dazzling blue eyes of the Mediterranean Sea. Part of the area is given over to the flower market, every morning, filling the roses and carnations, jasmine, mimosa, bougainvillea and other magnificence, to which so generously southern nature. Another part of the «Cour Saleya" - is the kingdom of fruits and vegetables, where the shelves sag under the weight of the pyramids of peaches and apricots, melons and oranges, tomatoes and olives. But every Monday, the market turns into a huge exhibition of old things, the witnesses of the past: bronze and carved furniture, strange arrangements and porcelain dolls, lace, and paintings ... Antique Market starts at nine in the morning, but well worth the very moment to admire the preparations, when a hour and a half before the start of trade quiet and empty before the area begins to fill vans sellers. That the owners of antique shops in Nice, and traders from all over the Côte d'Azur. From their "magic boxes" appear the most unexpected objects, which in a few minutes will have carefully laid out or stacked up in artistic disarray on the shelves. Quickly, without unnecessary chatter traders are preparing for the most important to them day in the week: after all, no other market is the Côte d'Azur does not attract as many fans of the original and rare knick-knacks. If you want to quietly observe their confidence, neat gesture - every seller, probably even with closed eyes could set our chandeliers, chests and the clock on the seats reserved for them - it makes sense to combine this exercise with a delicious breakfast at the bakery "Le Pain Quotidien ", which is located on the corner streets of Saint-François-de-Paul. It is very comfortable: a wooden parquet floor, numerous tables in the rustic style and a large table in the center, covered with vases with homemade jam and jam, and many baskets of freshly baked bread and croissants, exhaled a delicious smell.

While we plaster on the jam melts in your mouth baguette, washed down with all this great cappuccino, vans with «Cour Saleya" managed to disappear as if by magic. The first is a saleswoman with whom we met eyes, smiled in greeting, inviting look at your goods - porcelain knickknacks quite frankly, philistine and bombastic form. But by the counter across from it will not work no self-respecting woman: mountains of snow-white sheets with delicate embroidery, linen, weightless, decorated with lace nightgowns, girls are of marriageable age, probably in awe preparing for their wedding night ... Annie, mistress of all this splendor, with twenty-five years of age looking like delicate little things, saving them from oblivion and the devastating effects of mold. Among its findings released fabulously beautiful embroidered evening dress 60's, had once belonged to a socialite.

The lady with fiery red hair, is situated opposite, every Monday, leaves his shop «Antique Opera» Street Milton Annoben to put on the market «Cour Saleya" Provencal furniture, which specializes. She proudly shows us his most important treasure - a round-table geridon era of Napoleon III with the images on the tabletop landscapes and love scenes. A little further on, among a variety of Oriental knick-knacks, painted Japanese tea service 1900-1910 period. At the bottom of each bowl, and the thin and transparent, as if made of eggshells, we can see pretty face smiling enigmatically geisha.

Those who managed to get one of two hundred permanent seats on the market, organized by the Commune of the city of Nice in 1983, do not leave it for any price: it has to wait for seats on the five or six years. Other antique dealers - and only the holders of the so-called "blue card" - every time you play out between the right to occupy the remaining seats. Madame Février Options from the town for thirty years, she worked in this business, managed to bargain in Nice only nineteen times. While we admire the rare grace engravings in 1897 with views of the French countryside, she proudly tells us that among her clients a lot of Russian, who usually choose the most beautiful and expensive things. Mr. Zhine, neighbor, Madame Febvre, demonstrating their radios assembled from parts or traced throughout Provence (the oldest is dated, it seems, 1933 year).

We stop at the counter Monsieur Fenouillet, which exhibits silver, crystal and reproductions of Tiffany lamps, and for passing by buyers with interest the three dogs - Rita, Romeo and Babu. Next to the diner "Brasserie de Saleya", which bask in the warm sunshine tired visitors to the market, with a blissful look while sipping a beer and a refreshing anise pastis, the tray including products from Limoges porcelain vases we find a wonderful era of Art Nouveau style. And in the center of trade rows, next to the shop "Diagram", an excellent selection of Art Deco: the exquisite statues of ivory and bronze, a great Austrian pearl vase, another vase, this time with a ceramic effect Crackle (year 1925, the first judging across) are the same - silver on the "Christofle". From the counter Monsieur Daniel (he also came on the market, accompanied by his dog), littered with old postcards and black-and-white photographs, blows the magic and nostalgia - especially in contrast to the fielded in the vicinity of bright colored bracelets bakelite catching passing girls. In all this splendor is sad watching a "living statue" - painted white mime, frozen against the backdrop of a magnificent Baroque chapel of Mercy.

Among the thousands and thousands of all kinds trifle in this market can, if lucky, and find a real treasure. For example, an art dealer with Antibskih Islands Bige Paul specializes in the trade items for table setting. Among other things in front of him adorn a magnificent silver punch backup obviously seen better times, when going around the cream of society in any kind of aristocratic party in London. At the counter tanned Madame Tondut can see immortalized on a slightly dusty picture smile Countess de La Valliere, a favorite of Louis XIV. Next to the "Brasserie Les Ponchettes", in a shop, Felix de Segur, exhibited luxury gizmos 1900-1930 period: shimmering pearlescent fragile vase masters Galle and «Daum», languid statuettes of ivory, depicting the characters of Italian commedia del arte, a great stand for eggs with salt and pepper in the form of a bird in the original box - a rare work of silversmith school Galle, gift, most likely, some of the baby's baptism.

On the street Ponshett Monsieur Garcia, a handsome young man with a broad smile, offers garden furniture made of wrought iron, objects of folk art, textiles and even some rare things, such as the XVIII century Venetian mirrors and Provencal buffet beginning of the XIX century. And yet we have seen the excellent model of a large distillation apparatus for beer, which is working in 30-ies of the last century, gave the host brewery, steelyard beginning of XX century, the scales used in the Spanish arena for weighing the meat of a bull, which sold after the bullfight ... And in the end almost exhausted from walking and impressions, we froze in front of a grand lady with greyhound, "which showed us with awe Danielle Dreyfus, antique dealer from Kanes-sur-Mer.

Wandering through the market «Cour Saleya", you can look at nearby stores - for example, "Babylon", where a cloud of exotic aromas exhibited an excellent collection of gizmos imported from Nepal and Tibet, is here and silverware, handbags, figurines ... a natural frame bustling market serve as a snack - "brasseries" - with tables outdoors and unchanged linen striped awnings, as well as seafood restaurants, which is famous street Ponshett: "Le Grand Bleu", or "La Pecherie Saleya", beside which stands a real boat, to the brim filled with fish, crayfish and crabs.

At noon on Nice there was a dull gun volley that came from the green valleys of the Castello. This volley had heard of Henri Matisse - one of the most famous inhabitants of Nice and its most ardent admirers. It belongs to him admiring words: "Presenting that every day will see this light, I just can not believe his luck!" In Nice indeed a special world, especially the air, and special people. And even the flea market some unusual.

WHERE TO STAY
Hotel «West End», 31 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 00334 92144400, fax 93888507. Elegant historic hotel with rooms decorated in English and Provencal style. Restaurant «Le siècle» takes you to the atmosphere of Belle Epoque.
Hotel "Negresco», 37 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 00334 93166400, fax 93883568. The most famous hotel-palace on the Cote d'Azur, a living legend, who saw, perhaps, all the world's celebrities. Rooms are furnished with antique furniture and decorated pieces of art. The crystal chandelier in the main lobby is identical to the one that hangs in the Grand Kremlin Palace. At the hotel - excellent restaurant «Le Chantecler».
Hotel «Le Grimaldi», 15 rue Grimaldi, tel. 00334 93160024. Small family hotel with a refined atmosphere in a Mediterranean style, with excellent breakfast.
Hotel «Chateau des Ollières», 39 avenue des Baumettes, tel. 00334 92157799, fax 92157798. The former residence of Prince Lobanov-Rostovsky, preserve the atmosphere of the ancient aristocratic house. Excellent cuisine.

WHERE TO EAT
Restaurant «Auberge des Arts», 9 rue Pairolière, tel. 00334 93856353. One of the best restaurants in the old town. Decor in the spirit of Provence, the traditional kitchen, open to new trends.
Restaurant «Don Camillo», 5 rue des Ponchettes, tel. 00334 93856795. Located between the waterfront and market place "Sour Saleya». Offers excellent cuisine: typical cuisine of Nice, Italian cuisine.
Restaurant «Coco-Beach», 2 Avenue Jean Lorraine, tel. 00334 93893926. Restaurant faces the quay and shape of a ship. Very tasty fish dishes, mussels with lobster juice.
Restaurant «Bistrot du Vieux Nice», 8 rue du Marché, Tel. 00334 93134501. A simple restaurant in the heart of old town. Home kitchen, cozy atmosphere and good service.
Restaurant «Oliviera», 8 bis rue du Collet, tel. 003374 93130645. You can not only taste wonderful snacks, but also buy the best olive oil. Nadim Beirut, owner of the restaurant, with pleasure give you any advice.

Claudia Sugliano
Photo: Giovanna Dal Magro
Journal of the Mezzanine »№ 40 (2002)

The relaxed atmosphere of Southern France inspired him to create a sensual series of "Odalisque" - in it he depicted dressed in exotic costumes of women in decorative background.

In Nice, Matisse painted many interiors in which the inner and outer space has always divided among themselves - a balcony, railing, etc. In this case the artist resorted to the synthesis of natural and ornamental patterns and colors.
 In 1930, the American Albert Barnes, a famous collector of works by Matisse, ordered a wall decoration for his private museum. When you create a "Dance" (1933/1934) first used by Matisse colored paper, from which cut the required shape. In the mid-30's in numerous oil paintings and book illustrations Matisse pushes the boundaries of the paintings - forms went into space for the frame. One example is the "Music" (1939) and "Romanian Blouse" (1940).

In 1941 Matisse suffered a serious operation on the intestines. The deteriorating health forced him to simplify his style. To save power, he developed a technique of drawing up an image of scraps of paper (so-called Papiers decoupes), which enabled him to achieve the long-awaited synthesis of drawing and color.

In 1943 he began a series of illustrations for the book "Jazz" from scraps of colored gouache (completed in 1947).

 In 1944, his wife and daughter were arrested by the Gestapo for taking part in the activities of the Resistance.

In the period 1946-1948 paint painted by Matisse interiors again become very rich: his works such as "red interior still life on a blue table" (1947) and "The Egyptian Curtain" (1948), built on the contrast between light and darkness, as well as between internal and external spaces.

In the late 40's Matisse created the stained glass windows for the chapel of Pink Crown, which was designed and built for his money.

In 1954 the artist died in Nice Simieze under the age of 84.
http://www.nice-gorod.com/matisse.php#

The relaxed atmosphere of Southern France inspired him to create a sensual series of "Odalisque" - in it he depicted dressed in exotic costumes of women in decorative background.

In Nice, Matisse painted many interiors in which the inner and outer space has always divided among themselves - a balcony, railing, etc. In this case the artist resorted to the synthesis of natural and ornamental patterns and colors.
 In 1930, the American Albert Barnes, a famous collector of works by Matisse, ordered a wall decoration for his private museum. When you create a "Dance" (1933/1934) first used by Matisse colored paper, from which cut the required shape. In the mid-30's in numerous oil paintings and book illustrations Matisse pushes the boundaries of the paintings - forms went into space for the frame. One example is the "Music" (1939) and "Romanian Blouse" (1940).

In 1941 Matisse suffered a serious operation on the intestines. The deteriorating health forced him to simplify his style. To save power, he developed a technique of drawing up an image of scraps of paper (so-called Papiers decoupes), which enabled him to achieve the long-awaited synthesis of drawing and color.

In 1943 he began a series of illustrations for the book "Jazz" from scraps of colored gouache (completed in 1947).

 In 1944, his wife and daughter were arrested by the Gestapo for taking part in the activities of the Resistance.

In the period 1946-1948 paint painted by Matisse interiors again become very rich: his works such as "red interior still life on a blue table" (1947) and "The Egyptian Curtain" (1948), built on the contrast between light and darkness, as well as between internal and external spaces.
In the late 40's Matisse created the stained glass windows for the chapel of Pink Crown, which was designed and built for his money.
In 1954 the artist died in Nice Simieze under the age of 84.
http://www.nice-gorod.com/matisse.php#
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Once in 1941, Matisse suffered a serious operation, he increasingly worked as a book artist, doing collages. He literally became a "drawing with scissors, crashing straight into the color" - and thus never did preliminary sketches in pencil
Read more http://www.mymoleskine.ru/2009/12/an...pryamo-v-cvet/