The minefields, roadblocks, jeeps with machine guns, camouflaged tanks along the roads - all this modern Yemen. The Civil War ended in 1994, but to call this country is still hard to calm. Therefore, foreigners travel here only with armed guards. The fact is that from time to time tourists kidnapped in Yemen .... Our first stop - the ruins of the ancient city Barakish. Once through the rich capital of the kingdom on the banks of Wadi Ma'in Farda Jordan caravans of spices. Chetyrnadtsatimetrovye its fortress walls are two and a half thousand years. And again - the city of clay, sand and parched riverbeds. The convoy was going very fast. No stops, speed - under 140. Sometimes the escort cars are not only front but also behind the convoy. It is safer, especially in the mountains. Mareb enjoyed by Yemeni authorities notorious. Since the early 90's are periodically taken hostage by a group of tourists. For release of other local tribes demanded that the government release from prison, relatives or any benefit to their villages. Spaniards and Greeks in Yemen usually not steal. Russian - also, it is believed that for them is still not much to pay. Potential victims - the Europeans and Americans. This is what we in Mareb talk a lot.

At the market, local authorities have allowed us to travel only if accompanied by several armed Kalashnikovs police. At noon on the market Mareb many people with weapons: the buyers and sellers. Yemen - a country with the world's largest number of weapons per capita. According to some estimates, 22 million for 80 million (!) Trunks. That is, for every person, including women and children, nearly four pistols or machine. Authorities would like to somehow reduce the arsenal, to remove anything, but in Mareb, around which live the warring tribes, it does not succeed. Some with him as soon as three or four rounds filled the shop. Even the boys who sell on the market, dream soon grow and how their fathers to walk around the city with real weapons.

Desert Rablat es Sabatier - part of an empty corner. So called territory adjacent to the border with Saudi Arabia. Before her away no more than two hundred kilometers. Prepare for departure, we started before sunrise. Podspuskali wheel drive jeeps - the only way we can drive off-road. The composition of the convoy - four cars. Ahead - a hundred kilometers on the hot sand. The local tribes of foreigners pass through its territory for the money, instead of providing protection.

Shooting in the wilderness - a favorite pastime of the Bedouins. And they shoot so accurately, what to think about the fate of a people they aim at, do not want. How and how much ammunition is spent on their training. Here in the sleeve fall from fifty feet. However, in this part of Yemen's ability to shoot well just be any man.

Having ridden on roads and off-road Yemen several hundred kilometers, we can say that a Kalashnikov rifle in this country - not just weapons. For their men is much greater. So, with what they had never parted. Because for them it is a symbol of masculinity and freedom.