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Antique shop. Ar-нуво from Philippe Wolfers

Запись от Про искусство размещена 06.12.2018 в 10:29

Jewelry fantasy style art-нуво from Philippe Wolfers: Flowers, butterflies, peacocks, fairies.



At the end of the XIX @- early XX centuries in Europe, a new style of modern, covering all aspects of art. In different countries it had different names: in Russia –" art Nouveau", in Germany @-" art Nouveau" in France and Belgium –"Art Nouveau".... Touched new trends and jewelry. If in France the most famous jeweler of the Art Nouveau era was rené Lalique, in Belgium no less beautiful works in a new style created by Philip Wolfers.

birthplace of the famous jeweler in Brussels in 1858 into a wealthy family. His father was the famous master silversmith, is known throughout Europe, Louis Wolfers. The boy from a young age manifested interest in the jewelry business, and creativity. With 16 years he started working with his father in the workshop, learning the skill of a jeweler from the very basics.


Philip Wolfers (1858-1925)

And then in the world of art breaks art Nouveau, literally" blowing up" all its rules and customs. Wolfers lucky is the city of Brussels, where he lived, at the end of the XX century was a major cultural center, and Belgian capital played a major role in the development of modernism.

With the advent of the modern era, fundamental changes have occurred in the world of jewelry. Became important not only the cost of jewelry, but also their artistic value, design and beauty. If early decoration are mostly made of gold and the most expensive precious stones (diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires), now the jewelers began to use other natural materials and stones – opal, moonstone, garnet, tourmaline, chalcedony, freshwater pearls, appreciating all of her beauty. And remembered about the enamel, to revive its use in the manufacture of jewelry.

In the late 90-х. Philip Wolfers, which by the time of the case for the production of tableware made from silver and the interior was quite nice, I decided to do a slightly different thing @- the development of jewelry. And he did @- from 1897 to 1905 gg Wolfers worked very productively and successfully. They were created more than 100 skillful splendid ornaments, these masterpieces of the Art Nouveau era.
One of my favorite stones, which Wolfers often used in the work were carved opal. This beautiful stone, which can be seen indefinitely, won the heart of the master its mystery, translucency and unique play of color.


On the motives of Ancient Egypt


Pendant Medusa carved from ivory, eyes of opal, pearls, 1898


Brooch-кулон Nika, 1902, gold, engraved, enamel, equipment Translucid, rubies, emeralds, diamonds, carved tourmaline gem

In this gorgeous sling is Central to the face of a woman carved from opal, in a harmonious environment gold, expensive gems, pearls and colorful enamels.


Golden pendant" Cygne et Serpents" (1899) with opal, rubies, diamonds and pearls

This Golden pendant" Swan and serpent" Philip did and gave his wife Sophie Billstedter.


portrait of the wife of a goldsmith, Sophie Billstedter suspension, hood. Firmin Baes

Design of the jewelry also have changed dramatically due to the change of images and motifs. For Art Nouveau the main source of inspiration was nature @- vegetable and flower patterns with flowing sinuous lines. Of flowers most often portrayed is not a rose, so beloved before, and climbing plants (ivy, flowers), as well as irises, orchids...


Freesia, 1901. One of the most favorite colors of Wolffers


hair Pin" Orchid". Gold, diamonds, enamel


Brooch" Winged Orchid"

Radically changed and the motives, borrowed from the animal world.






Brooch-кулон Dragonfly, 1903-1904,gold, opals, enamel, rubies, diamonds, Mexican opal

Along with ephemeral butterflies and dragonflies, the greatest interest is caused by the birds @- swallows, swans, peacocks – whose smooth silhouettes perfectly fit the new form.




Le chant du Cygne, 1901


Peacocks:






Heart shaped peacock brooch pendant. Enamel, peridot, diamond, and opal drop

this brooch shows the proud bird @- peacock. But inside his outstretched wings emerald framed by diamonds, opals and peridot (1902). In 2012 was sold at auction for $ 34600.

If in the XIX century the dominant was the Puritan sentiment, rules and regulations, but now everything has changed. Jewelers began to appear in jewelry sensual languid maidens with beautiful curved lines of the bodies, sometimes even naked. And holders of such ornaments unabashedly wore them.



women are Often presented in the form of a butterfly or dragonfly.






Fashion in the modern era

Hairstyles became more voluminous, and fluffy. For them used a variety of decorations, fixed hairstyles with ridges.


Comb hair" Iris et Oiseaux" ("Birds and Iris") 1899. Philip Wolfers, Gold, enamel, Brazilian opal and rock crystal

fashion waist corset and very narrow," wasp" waist. Often the waist wore belts with buckles, beautiful jewelry.


Buckle, Philip Wolfers.

Popular wide necklace called a" dog collar", almost completely hid the neck,
Very beautiful necklace manufactured and Philip Wolfers in 1900. It is called" Necklace Wisteria".


“Glycines” (“Wisteria”) dog collar by Philippe Wolfers, 1902, jour enamel, carved tourmalines and opals, rubies, garnets and Baroque pearls



Sold in 2016 for 220 thousand euros to a private collection.
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