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Jewelry Art Nouveau: Luis Masriera y Roses and others ...

Posted 03-04-2014 at 08:34 by Про искусство

Luis Masriera and Roses (Luis Masriera y Roses), jeweler , painter, set designer and theater director.
Born in Barcelona in 1872. Grandson and son of one of the most prestigious jewelry collections Catalonia XIX century , that it gives old family jewelry business is a real breakthrough and downright jet entering the global market.He is one of the major and outstanding representatives of Art Nouveau.
Luis Masriera perfected his technique in Paris, London and Geneva. And returning to Barcelona, ​​devoted himself to the revival of enamel - transparent and opaque.

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traditional love of avant-garde subjects and fancy shapes taken from nature itself, and the use of advanced technology and innovation - are the main distinguishing features of the style Masriera, have remained unchanged for almost two centuries of history of the brand.

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Barcelona workshop Masriera - one of the few places in the world where they still cherish the secret to creating and special enamel firing , due to which it becomes transparent.
Both of these unique techniques plique? jour and basse-taille, first used by Louis Masrieroy in the late XIX century , have survived , and are actively used by the current masters of the brand.

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But achieving Masriery glorified not only his name and the child - enamel with a particularly bright , radiant colors and distinct relief experts around the world for over a century termed"the Barcelona enamel".

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Barcelona and Masriera really inseparable.
and it"s not just that the capital of Spanish Catalonia became the birthplace of the famous jewelry brand , the location of its headquarters and flagship store.City, where he worked most vivid and eccentric artists of the twentieth century , Barcelona - a soul and a constant source of inspiration for the brand jewelers.

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Bracelet, 1900 y

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Bracelet, 1905

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Broche con grulla, 1902

Masriera - the only Spanish manufacturer of jewelry , award honor to be presented in the exhibition celebrated museums in the world.

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in 1913, the artist influenced by the style leaves Novecentismo features symbolism and dipped in a classic style with more geometric lines , approaching that in Europe it was known as Art Deco.

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in 1915 might be the only fact in the history of Barcelona"s jewelry art of XX century - the merger of the two largest families of jewelers and great silversmiths Catalonia - Masriera and Carreras. Jewelry society" Masriera i Carreras", presented at the Paris International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in 1925 and the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona ( 1929g. ) , have been praised and earned recognition in Europe.

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in 1985"Masriera i Carreras"merges with jewelry firm Bagues, created in 1917.
So now Masriera historical jewelry can be seen on permanent display.Hotel Bagues, one of the jewels of modern Barcelona , located on the main tourist artery of the city on the border of La Rambla Gothic Quarter , close to the Plaza Catalunya, has been working his own museum brand. The interior decoration of the rooms used by the museum Masriera, ebony furniture and parts , covered with gold leaf.


Jewelry Art Nouveau ( Art - Nouveau ).
"Modern" ," modern" style (French moderne - the newest , modern) , one of the names of style trends in European and American art of the late nineteenth century - early twentieth centuries.
In Belgium , the UK and the U.S. it is known as the"new art"(Art Nouveau), in Germany -"Jugendstil"(Jugendstil), Austria -"Secession"(Sezessionstil), in Italy -"Liberty style"("stile Liberty"), in Spain -"modernism"(modernismo).

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Luis Masriera y Roses

Jewellers Art Nouveau were the first to practice the use of semi-precious stones , in the earlier Victorian era really considered valuable ornament products using only precious stones.
Art Nouveau brought into vogue these stones like opal, was considered more important artistic skill , not the value of the material. This trend continued and developed jewelers Deco.

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Luis Masriera y Roses

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Broche en oro, diamantes


The new style has become the latest embodiment of the ideals of Romanticism in art.Modern, penetrated almost every area of ​​art in the last decade of the nineteenth century., Quickly spread throughout Europe and across the ocean peremahnuv found adherents in the United States.

The protagonist , or rather , the heroine of a new direction in the visual arts was a woman.Long, flowing wavy hair, smooth and soft lines of the female body especially responded well stylistic preferences of modernity.

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Broche libelula en oro

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by artists new direction woman appears more often than men. Yes, and the whole character of the style - female : it is clearly felt the desire to please.Here the desire for external prettiness complemented exhibitionism and a fair amount of coquetry.
No accident one of the many nicknames of modernity - women"s style and colors.

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Broche-colgante de Masriera


By the 1890s, fashion is no longer a privilege of the upper classes.Thanks to fashion magazines the general public had the opportunity to get acquainted with the latest trends it is born in the world of bohemia and model houses in Paris , which, like the poets of the time , creating a cult of"infernal"women , whimsical and languid , sensual and exotic.In accordance with the tastes of the era woman silhouette acquired serpentine paths and began to resemble a Latin letter S.
most actively invading modern style design evening dresses , unusually spectacular due to the asymmetry of curved lines and campy.

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Broche-colgante de Masriera

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Juego de colgante y sortija

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La pesca de la perla

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Luis Masriera y Roses

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Luis Masriera y Roses

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Luis Masriera y Roses


new suit demanded matching accessories , and above just a new type of jewelry.
There are unique types of necklaces - pearl necklace with diamond or"fringe", combines well with mysoobraznymi neckline ; wide collars , richly decorated with stones ; thin hoops with stone on a long rod going down to the chest; strikingly beautiful combs, decorated with gold and gems. But traditional kinds of jewelry purchased new original features.

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Broche de ramo de azucenas

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Broche doble-clip en forma

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Broche en forma de cesto

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Broche en forma de clavel

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Diamond, Colored Diamond, Gold Brooch
In the modern era to the forefront in jewelry came not master craftsman, manufactured similar to each other"commercial jewels"and a jeweler to create individual and truly artistic embellishments , which had new imagery that reflected the spirit of the times.Thanks to the talent of the authors of such jewelry jewelry making, along with the architecture and art glass , came to the forefront of the development of art , largely defining the decorative features of the new style.

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Broche en forma de p? jaro

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Broche en oro blanco, coral

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Broche en oro con vistas

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Broche lazo en oro y pedrer?

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Corals , diamonds, yellow and white gold bracelet


at the initial stage in the imagery of jewelry , as well as in art modernity in general , bright development was floralnoe direction ( from the French word floral - flower ), which are best suited to artistic aspirations of the time.
It was based on the transformation of motives born nature , and if the age of Historicism was typical naturalistic image of flowers and insects , the master of Art Nouveau treated them as a kind of signs, carrying a nervous symbolism turn of the century.

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ring in yellow gold with corals , DIOR

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Gold, platinum , diamonds, coral necklace , the second half of the XIX century

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Diamond, Sapphire, Enamel, Gold Brooch

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Gargantilla en oro, coral

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Pendientes en oro y coral

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Pendientes en oro, coral

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Pendientes en oro, coral

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Jay Strongwater Salamander Pin and Jay Strongwater Small Floral Frame


In ornamental decor floralnogo direction of modernity reflected magical and poetical world of plants and animals : emerald lizards and snakes , dragonflies and butterflies pestrokrylye , stately sunflowers and reeds , luxurious orchids, irises , elegant , delicate lilies of the valley , spectacular cyclamen and especially a lot of favorite poets" Silver Age" lilies.

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Juego de collar, pulsera

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Broche en oro, crisoprasas

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Broche en oro, diamantes

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Broche en oro, esmalte

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A garnet floral spray brooch

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